The Two Moors Way - a fascinating cross section through all things Devonian

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4:00

I woke on Saturday morning feeling fairly calm, despite being a little shattered from almost no shuteye during the previous night. After checking all the equipment was good to go, we clambered into the car and headed off into the dark.

Luckily, to please my appetite Adrian had bought 2 large pork pies for us to enjoy whilst we hit the peddle out to Ivybridge. Bulking out this early in the morning may feel a little gross, however I soon understood that it's worth saying yes to all the food you can get before your appetite starts refusing to be compliant.

5:00

With the sun rising in the distance, we begun the journey walking along a disused railway track heading out towards Red Lake Tip. Along the way we saw herds of sheep rearing their new family members and plenty of smaller birds welcoming the morning rays.

After walking a brisk pace during the morning we had managed to soon reach Scorriton. Scorriton was the first village among many other cosy pockets of civilisation that collectively some up the wonderful world of Devon.

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12M

Scorriton to Bennets Cross:

After passing through Scorriton for a resupply (a quick swig of tea followed by some chocolate bars and of course hot cross buns) we travelled out to Cleave Woods. This little gem was ancient, beckoning with mysterious intentions from earlier days. The colours were out on display and the River Dart meandering nearby was cool and refreshing after the sun had picked up.

After wandering up Dr Blackalls Drive (a lane the doctor had built in aid of his ailing wife) we trudged up onto Hameldown ascending to 500metres. As we travelled on up, the wind met us in the face and I was glad to accept the offer of a shiny windproof soft shell jacket. I met lots of large groups walking their dogs the other way who seemed delighted to have had their backs facing leeward. After passing a 45m Ten Tors team I was soon to rondevous back with Dad at Bennet's Cross, stopping for another cup of tea, followed by a bread role and a chance to salve the backs of my heals.

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Bennets Cross to Chagford:

My legs still feeling sharp, ploughed across the last patches of open moorland. During the journey, we had caught sight of Deer grazing nearby and Fox's diving into hedgerows whilst approaching Yardworthy. Once on the Mariners way, it's a mixture of up's and downs and then along the flat along riverside woodland paths.

34M

Chagford Swimming Pool:

The next leg which took me high up into the Teign valley so that your overlooking the River Teign below and Castle Drogo up above, sped at lightning pace. I had fun confronting the odd stubborn pony who seemed indifferent to think that the path was now their entitled birthright.

We eventuallly made it through to the A30 flyover acting as a make shift rest stop. Can't say that this was the most tranquil resting point but I guess it made good access.

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A30 Flyover to Morchard Road:

This had initially been the start of our night section, however with some fuel still left in the tank and a few hours of precious daylight still lurking, we pressed on over a beautiful stretch of fields, small streams and country estates ( such as the Paschoe house). Along the way we witnessed a cow giving birth to her calf (making a pleasant distraction away from the mild foot pain). Though the only annoyance I encountered was that for every fence cord you unclipped, a bunjee would race back meaning you'd have to tug rather sternly to get the electric cable back into its hoop. An interesting discovery during this leg was that although everything leading up to the Paschoe house was this pristine and well tamed fascade, a five minute walk passing the farm yard soon altered that ideaology as you viewed what could be mocked up as construction site still in active use.

The Night Section:

With a couple hot bits inside me and a quick commune with nature at Morchard Road, Dad and I headed off into the void. Luckily, the map combined with a rather reliable GPS tracker had become two very useful utilities in the hours to come. My assumption was that in the night things would start getting long and tedious, your pace would slow down and you'll be dreaming that bush beside you was a nice warm bed to drop down on. However, it still felt like I hadn't passed my bed time and so we continued on into the night. From what I can recall, we seemed to have passed a myriad of field systems, roads and styles. I guess the only eventful moment during the night was when confronting a white barn owl staring right back at us whilst perched up in the trees; oh and my slip through a very large cattle grid.

Towards the morning my pace began to slow as I figured the 3mph trot may be dwindling. However, this was quickly reversed after blasting out some energetic tunes, soon lifting my spirits to an all new high.

Dawn had broken setting a fiery glaze over the awakening sky. The bottom pictures shows me arriving at Tarr steps (around 9am).

After covering 75 miles in just over 24hrs my movement began to slow. The calves of my legs were throbbing for a rest of the mileage and stopping would only cause futher complications such as causing them to seize up. It was from here on that I finally registered an understanding of the phrase 'one foot infront of the other'. Gradually my whole body began winding down and for the last 10 miles my poles were merely an extension of my body wrestling with my legs to drag myself on towards Lynmouth.

Withypool to Simonsbath:

This was a fairly gentle route and had lots of geological features to admire along the way but exhaustion was starting to cave in. All I could summon now was this drive to keep on hobbling on in a conscious battle with myself that I'd be gutted to have given up when I'd makings it thus far.

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Cheriton to Lynmouth:

19:00

With only a couple miles to go I embraced the descent, pummelling my poles down to take any ounce of weight off the hard beaten track. The afternoon sun had sprung up out of the clouds which made pleasant walking conditions through the North Ground woods. It was originally mapped out in my head that it was all down hill to Lynmouth; though I was soon disheartened to learn that infront of me was a very large incline taking you across on up to Myrtleberry Hangings. What followed next took at least 2 hours to complete in order to cover the last mile . I initially came down a flight of steep z paths which eventually had you crossing a small river. I soon later learned that you had to climb all the way backup your initial descent to go down a whole new set of Z paths. By this point Lynmouth was tantalizingly close and I was met by blackening thought advocating that If I'd just let myself role off from here, someone along the road might find me and give me a lift back to the car park.

As night lurked closer, I pictured Lynmouth as this scene from Lord of the Rings when Frodo comes to Rivendale (though I'm sure the fatigue must have suspended some disbelief). The lanterns flooded into view and the evening bars awaited customers. Every Z path down Bannitcott Wood was one bit closer to warm the shelter of civlisation. I mustered all my stength and limped towards the finish. From then on only two thoughts entered my mind. One concerning all the wonderful people that have continued to inspire me these past 18 years forming the person I am today and then another of the challenges ahead in 2020 where I hopefully shall embark on the journey to the Amazon.

Well too bad the fish and chip shop couldn't stay open, I think if anything a good night's rest was the first priority.

This has been a truly remarkable journey, a journey through both mental and physical terrain all of which have produced dividends in the end for what beauty can sighted right around the corner. I can't remember a time where I've seen this much over just two days (around 40hrs to be precise).

21:00

Ultimately the Two Moors Way amalgamates into this rural cocktail of Devonshire life. Some parts feel expansive, feral and unkempt like Hamel Down and Cheriton Ridge whilst other parts exhibit a complete contrast, presenting themselves as tamed like the stone walls or immaculately lawned estates. In short, this walk grants you so much variety which I think is what quintissentially makes Devon a very special place to visit on the map. It's a walk that invigorates a great sense of pride, not only on acomplishment but from the mere fact that Devon is a very attractive place to live and it's important that we recognise this fact and preserve the land for future generations to enjoy and inhabit it's boundless beauty.

Cheers guys for all the generous donations and kind messages over these past two months.

Hopefully by the time I return from the Amazon expedition I shall be able to use this site as a portal for sharing/documenting my findings and experiences. Once again, thank you so much for all the continued support. This has effectively meant that I can safely raise the funds required to depart in June/July next year and hope to see many of you sometime shortly.

Happy Easter,

T

https://www.gofundme.com/2MoorsWay